One name, two herbs

"What's the difference between Turkish and Mexican oregano, and can I use them the same way?" We get this question a lot. They're actually two unrelated plants from two different botanical families, sharing a name by an accident of history.

Turkish Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is a member of the mint family along with Marjoram, Thyme, Basil, and Rosemary. It grows all around the Mediterranean and it's the oregano of Greek and Italian cooking. In most American kitchens, oregano means this one. It's the irresistible smell of a hot pizza box.

Open the tin and it's aromatic and herbal, with a little earthiness underneath.

Use it in tomato sauce for pasta or pizza, in a pot of beans, with vegetables sautéed in olive oil, and on chicken, fish, or lamb. Cooks pair it with basil, marjoram, and rosemary.

Try Turkish Oregano in these blends:

• El Greco
• Green Za'atar

Mexican Oregano (Lippia graveolens) has no relation to Turkish oregano. It sits in the verbena family, closer kin to lemon verbena than to anything in the mint family, and that's where the citrus notes come from. It grows in Mexico and through Central America.

The smell is sharper and much more intense, citrusy and pungent, rough around the edges. A little goes a long way, so start small.

Use it in salsa, chili, moles, enchiladas, pots of beans, and on grilled meats. It's a cornerstone of Mexican and Central American cooking.

Try Mexican Oregano in these blends:

• Mole Olé
• Cajun Black

The shared name came from Spanish colonists, who found a local herb with a familiar smell and called it oregano.

Can you substitute?

We wouldn't put Mexican oregano into a dish that calls for Turkish. It's strong enough that you'll taste it over everything else.

If a recipe calls for Mexican oregano and Turkish is what you have, you can use a little more than the recipe asks for and add citrus: lemon zest, or a squeeze of lemon or orange. Lemon Peel does the same job if you keep it in the cabinet.

For either one, crumble the herbs between your fingers on the way into the pot to wake up their flavors.

Next time you're in the shop, ask to smell them side by side. It's the fastest way to tell them apart.

 - World Spice